reverse stitching

he Reserve seam is the result of a very special process. Once the upper has been cut, it is turned upside down and welted to be invisible looking, pushing the needle into the leather without ever completely piercing it. Sometimes using 1.2 mm thick leathers, the skilled hands of craftsmen can push the needle between 0.4 and 0.8 mm. Needless to say that, after years of practice, cobblers have developed a very precise touch, the real essential skill to properly use the awl and the needle and perfectly perform such a difficult procedure. Once sewn, the upper is mounted on the last and then the antique finish is applied. Thanks to the different grains and layers of the leather, this procedure allows for truly unique, never-the-same effects and shades.

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